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Thursday, March 31, 2011

For Want of a Screw...

Posted on 3:26 AM by dvdsvdsdv

Readers, believe me when I tell you that yesterday at this time I had never heard of a loop guard, let alone a loop guard screw.  But life is about learning, friends, and if we're open to it, knowledge will come our way, no matter how arcane and (arguably) trivial.

Today's post will have primarily wonk appeal so, apologies.   I should state immediately that the screw pictured above is not Singer Featherweight part #200145, the aforementioned loop guard screw (I'm sure some of you knew that already).  But I couldn't find a good picture of #200145.  Sometimes you need Troy Donahue but you have to settle for Tab Hunter -- or is it the other way around?

Long story short: I worked a bit on my Featherweight yesterday.  Quick recap: I bought this machine on eBay and paid what I would consider a low-end price, though sadly not bargain basement.  I've seen them at the flea market for somewhat less and considerably more.  It didn't come with the accessory box but I did get an intact case, the original manual, and a nice vintage buttonholer with seven templates.





My last piece for BurdaStyle was all about how to buy a vintage sewing machine and I didn't follow my own advice.  The eBay seller wrote "the light works and the machine sews."  Well the light does work and the machine does sew -- sort of.  I could have asked for a stitch sample but it was clear that the seller knew very little about the machine and I hoped the vagueness of the description would depress the bidding, which it did.  It's a crap shoot as they say and I gave the seller positive feedback regardless.  (BTW, the seller thought the machine was from 1934; it's from 1951 based on the serial number and indeed -- I just noticed this five minutes ago -- it has the Singer Centennial badge!)

The motor sounds great, and after significant oiling everything now runs smoothly and powerfully, but after a few stitches the thread jams.  So yesterday I read online about Featherweight thread jams -- and read and read and read.  The amount of information out there about this little machine is astounding!

Remember I mentioned needing to buy a small screwdriver to tighten the hook gib screw with?  Well I did, and though I tightened it, the thread still jammed (I'd already checked the needle, thread, etc.).

One site suggested I remove and clean under the bobbin case base, pictured below, which I then did.  (This is the piece that the bobbin case fits into.)  It's all part of the larger hook assembly.  Am I losing you?



With bobbin case base removed:
 

I then noticed that there was what looked like a screw hole visible as well as a loose plate beneath it on the same shaft.  This loose plate I eventually identified as the loop guard.  And wouldn't you know: the loop guard is supposed to be screwed on to the hook assembly.  Can you see where it looks like there's a screw missing on the right?  That's because there is a screw missing.  (It's the smaller of the two holes.)

Here's the side view:
 

Wrapped around the shaft between the loop guard and the rest of the hook assembly were layers and layers of thread -- old, old thread, my friends.

First I pulled out a few strands of filament as fine as doll hair (which it could be for all I know).



Half an hour later I had removed all this:



Anyway, miracle or miracles, many websites sell this loop guard screw for just a few dollars and I ordered one.  It should arrive next week sometime and then we'll take it from there!

As I was figuring all this out yesterday I kept sending emails to Rain with headings like "My Featherweight issue," "Last email, promise" and "REALLY the last email!"  Obviously a man of few words, his (sole) response was "Sounds like you solved the problem, yeah?"  Friends, is that what you think I wanted to hear?  He's the sewing machine repair specialist!  This is the problem with the internet, I think.  With a little effort you can solve just about any technical problem yourself; I hate that.

Here's a bonus pic of the entire hook assembly for you Featherweight fetishists.  Pretty hot, huh?



Lest you think I spent the entire day marinating in sewing machine oil, I actually got some sewing done, though not as much as I'd hoped to.

I started on the jacket and readers, it's going to be so cute, though obviously not something you'd wear over a tee shirt.



I also finished the kimono sleeves on the bodice with bias I cut myself.









Such a nice finish.  I'll slip stitch those down later on.

Friends, we're nearly out of time.  Thank you for all your wonderful Featherweight-related tips yesterday.  The stinky, sneeze-inducing carrying case is on the balcony and I'm not entirely sure what to do with it.  In a city apartment there's really no place to store moldy things and I already have all that old luggage smelling up the bedroom.  I will probably never even use that case and I don't really see myself stripping it down, fumigating it, potpourri-ing it or anything of that ilk.  Then again, yesterday I'd never heard of a loop guard screw.

If I had to do over I'd pay less for a machine without a case (most of the old ones have the stink issue, apparently) and get one of those nice new tote bags for it.  Live and learn!

TOKIBAT!

Have a great day, everybody!

P.S. - You can read my latest BurdaStyle piece here; comments are always welcome!
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Posted in Singer Featherweight, works in progress | No comments

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Photo Album 2...and the Featherweight arrives!

Posted on 4:25 AM by dvdsvdsdv


More pics from the magical mystery photo album -- and so much more, my friends.  But first...

Who wants a Tom Collins?



Belly up to the (home) bar, boys!



Just three more drinks till dinner, hon.



Ray-Bans, madras shorts, chinos...







Grammy seeks a quick exit.



Don't eat the fruit, Bunny...



Happy Birthday, Chip!



Lots more fun pics of the life I'll never have but at least someone did here.

In other news...the Featherweight arrived yesterday!





Carrying case intact though a little beat up, as expected.  The inside is a bit moldy looking (and smelling).



And there she is.





Not for the first time with a vintage machine, I turn her on, she runs and then immediately seizes up.



I take off her hand wheel and find decrepit thread wound around the shaft.



Under the throat plate, ancient mystery lint.





I'm not entirely sure I understand how to thread her, friends, though I DO have the manual.  I did get her to sew a bit (with a fresh needle)



But then the top thread would get tangled up below.  Here one possible cause:





The hook is loose.  Do you see how it comes off that little protruding doohickey on the left?  I don't have the correct screwdriver for this so I'll have to pick one up later today if possible.

The good: her motor sounds fantastic -- strong and quiet -- and when I run her with no thread she's smooth as can be.   I'll need to tighten up that hook (I might disassemble the shuttle race first)  and take it from there.

This is the first time I've bought a used sewing machine and not been able to sew with her right off the bat -- disappointing, but I suppose it builds character.  The seller said she sews and that's factually true but there's no way, judging from the condition she arrived in, that she was fully tested.  They probably turned the light on, revved the motor, and called it a day.  

I'm glad to have her, though, and eager to get her sewing.  Now about the smell...  (Haven't we been down this road before?)

Happy Wednesday, everybody!  Any Featherweight fans out there?

What are you having?

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Posted in 60s glamour, Singer Featherweight | No comments

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

The Photo Album

Posted on 5:47 AM by dvdsvdsdv


I don't know what came over me, readers.  At the flea market on Sunday I did something unprecedented and wholly in conflict with my new decluttering rules.  I purchased somebody's lost/discarded photo album.  And what an album it is!

It's not like I don't have family photo albums of my own; I do -- but they're nothing like this.  No, friends, this was the family album I wish I had, full of beautiful people living the high life with fabulous personal style.  I simply had to have it. 

I put the time around 1962; there are a lot of blanks (obviously).  Perhaps we can fill them in together.



Look at these women.  Look at those clothes, that pool, that house.  These are not models, my friends, they are real people.  Or the cast of The Graduate.
 
They played tennis at the club.



They had a maid straight out of Central Casting.



Beautiful dresses and plenty of cocktail parties.  When I was growing up we threw no cocktail parties, though there might have been the odd Jello mold buffet.  We owned no poodles.



They traveled to exotic places.



They lay about on the beach.





And they drank...



and drank...



and drank!



Who are these people and whatever became of them?  How did this most personal of possessions, the family photo album, end up on a grimy flea market table surrounded by piles of old brassieres (I resisted), moldy lavender sachets, and yellowed Playboy magazines?

There's more here, and I'll take better photos at some later date; this album merits more than one blog post, don't you think?

NOTE: If this is your family's album please email me directly along with some identifying information -- what is Aunt Gladys wearing poolside on Page 3 and what is she drinking? -- and I will see it gets to you, C.O.D.

Meanwhile, back in reality (or its MPB equivalent) my fifties Simplicity cocktail dress is coming along swimmingly.

I finished the skirt and most of the bodice yesterday and just need to attach them.  Then I'll start the matching jacket.  I am loving this dress.









Little mistake with the serger knife there; cost me a good hour and a half.  Whoops!



In closing friends, did you have cocktail parties growing up?  Did your entire family wear coordinating pastels?  Can somebody fix me a Vodka Stinger?

Have a great day everybody!
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Posted in 60s glamour, my life, works in progress | No comments
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      • For Want of a Screw...
      • Photo Album 2...and the Featherweight arrives!
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