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Showing posts with label clothing and culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clothing and culture. Show all posts

Friday, January 20, 2012

Clothes Shopping for Men vs. Clothes Shopping for Women

Posted on 8:28 AM by dvdsvdsdv


BREAKING NEWS, FEMALE  READERS:  I get it.  

I mean, I really get it.  I now understand why women sew.

I owe this epiphany to a recent article on the Cracked.com website, The 7 Most Baffling Things About Women's Clothes, by Christine H.

You must read it and tell me whether or not you agree with her arguments.  A few of her points were familiar to me, like arbitrary (vanity) sizing, but others I had never thought about before, like her complaint that the fabric is often too thin, or the garment inappropriate for cool weather (or a cool office) due to the amount of skin left exposed.

I'm going to tell you something you probably already know: clothes shopping for most men is so easy you could do it in your sleep, or certainly from a catalog.  There are two basic reasons for this: 1) traditional men's clothing is always available, and  2) it does. not. change.  Or if it does, the changes are so slight and rolled out so slowly, that only if you're wearing a sweater from, say, 1947, do you notice that knit waistbands were a little wider back then, or that ties were somewhat wider (after having been narrower, which followed immediately upon their being wider, narrower, wider, narrower, etc.).  Maybe I exaggerate, but my basic point is valid.

For example, whether we're talking Goodwill or Nordstrom, you can always find some version of the following items:

Khaki pants.



A light blue button down oxford shirt.



Penny loafers.



A gray crewneck wool sweater.



A classic field jacket.



Too conservative?  Dress it down with Converse All Stars.



If you're sportier still, you can wear an Adidas tracksuit almost anywhere these days.



Traditional types can opt for a leather bomber jacket, available today at L.L. Bean as it has been for decades.



For more formal occasions, a blue pinstripe suit.  Always in fashion. 



Readers, the list goes on and on, and you can wear these clothes from eight to eighty and beyond.   If you want to dress exactly like Humphrey Bogart did in Casablanca, you don't have to hunt in a vintage clothing store.  If a gray-flanneled Gregory Peck is more your style, you can create that look too, easily, hat and rep tie included.





Men's clothing is basically a uniform, and has been for more than a century.  There's the business uniform, the preppy-casual uniform, and the sporty uniform (probably a few others too), but whichever one you choose, you don't have to be creative or up on the latest trends.  Just go to most any department store or thrift shop.  So easy.  You may not look like you stepped out of GQ magazine, but you won't raise any eyebrows either.  You'll just look...normal.

Now let's take women's clothes.  I did a little casual research (the only kind I do) and searched for women's dress in Google Images.  Here's what I found scads of (these three are from J. Crew but they're typical): skimpy "party" dresses I don't think most women could wear to work.  In fact, other than dinner out in a warm climate (bring a sweater as most restaurants are air-conditioned), I'm not sure where you'd wear these dresses.  Any ideas?







Based on recent comments regarding fashion trends, it sounds like some seasons there simply are no basics -- navy skirts or simple gray slacks -- available for women.  (Is this true even at L.L. Bean?)

As far as women's shoes are concerned...eek!



In closing, readers, why do you think men's clothes never change?  Is it because most men aren't interested in fashion, or are most men not interested in fashion because men's clothes never change?

With regard to The 7 Most Baffling Things About Women's Clothes, are there any other baffling things you'd like to add?

Enlightenment sought!
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Posted in clothing and culture, mens fashion | No comments

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Peter's Fashion Forecast for 2012!

Posted on 7:49 AM by dvdsvdsdv


Readers, imagine my surprise when I stumbled upon the book Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting by Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore, and Hyejeong Kim at my local library yesterday.  Talk about synchronicity! 



I eagerly paged through it and discovered it to be about as dry as a fashion-related book can be, though, granted, it's a textbook.  If this doesn't turn students off fashion trend analysis nothing will. 





There's a dirty little secret buried at the end of this book (p. 153) and it's quite the eyebrow raiser: "...most U.S. retailers experience large errors in their sales forecasts, resulting in dramatic financial losses. According to the U.S. Census Bureau and National Retail Federation, U.S. retailers are losing more than $200 billion a year due to forecast errors (Kumar & Patel, 2008).

Yes, folks, $200 billion.  What does that tell you about the success of fashion forecasting?

My hunch is that if I told you to dig around the Internet and come up with ten likely fashion trends for Fall 2012, you could do it by tomorrow morning.  You don't need a Ph.D. and you can skip Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting.  You need to be creative, observant, confident in your choices, and able to justify them.



Let's face it, nobody knows for sure what's going to happen tomorrow, whether it's in economics, politics, or fashion.  But decisions need to be made today and forecasting gives us the confidence and -- when necessary (like when sales suck) -- provides a justification, so we don't lose our jobs.

It's not our fault -- Pantone predicted Tangerine Tango!

The truth is that people who need clothes are largely going to be limited to what's in the stores.  They'll have to buy something, so if they're told that the big color is orange and that's what they see, they're going to buy orange.  They may prefer red, but if there's no red to be had, they won't be buying red.  Which helps to justify our choice of orange.  If orange doesn't meet expectations, though, we can always blame it on the economy, the weather, or bloggers.

It's like American presidential campaigns.  By the time elections happen, we're choosing between two people we can't stand, neither of whom will represent our interests.  But if we're going to vote, this is the choice we have, and invariably a vote in favor of candidate A or B will be interpreted as a mandate for his or her positions, though it's nothing of the kind.

Just as it's no surprise that relatively few people end up voting, it's shouldn't be a shock to discover that a growing number of people today are shopping in thrift stores, making their own clothes, and snubbing their noses at fashion forecasting.  They've dropped out of the "fashion system" and are doing their own thing or whatever their immediate peer group is doing.  Or the opposite of that.

Friends, here are my five fashion predictions for 2012.  I invite you to add some of your own, below.

1) Women and men will continue to wear tight jeans.  In fact, the big word for 2012 is denim.  Does this sound a lot like last year's prediction, and the year before that?  Surprise!

2) Men will increasingly adopt the late Nineteenth Century prospector look.  Plaid vests, tight pants, suspenders, long underwear, high laced boots, wire frame granny glasses, and shaggy beards.  Fashion forward types will blacken a few teeth.

3) Vintage-inspired fashion will continue to grow in popularity.   Mad Men-inspired dressing will wane, as young people rediscover Here's Lucy and The Mother's In-Law on DVD.  It's all about 1968!

.


4.  BIG colors for Fall 2012:  Dusty Rose (think Cathy's Forties coat) and Teal (because Michael says so).  If not Fall 2012, maybe Fall 2013.  Anyway, it will happen eventually so don't be caught behind the trend.







5.  Black is the new black.  Yes, black is back, and will replace navy, tan, and gray as the neutral du jour.  Expect to see black in men's swimsuits, men's and women's shoes, women's pants, and men's formal wear.   Plus all-things funeral-related.  A return to the classics!

Readers, I think that's enough forecasting for now -- I don't want to overwhelm you, or myself.

Please tell us about the trends you're seeing in your neck of the woods and what you predict for the coming year.  Should anyone be investing in day-glo at this point?  And after Tangerine Tango...what?

Of course, please (briefly) share why you believe your predictions are likely to come true.  Be creative!

Have a great day, everybody!
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Posted in books, clothing and culture | No comments

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Dress Silhouettes Gone Wrong + POLL!

Posted on 10:53 AM by dvdsvdsdv
 

Readers, do you believe in objective truth?  Do some ideas live in the universal mind and transcend both history and geography?  Are some concepts simply not up for discussion? 

I believe that, despite changing fashion trends and cultural differences, the human eye finds -- and has always found -- beauty in the natural silhouette of the human body, and humans have chosen to attire themselves in garments that closely echo that silhouette.  There are different body shapes, certainly, but the differences are relatively minor.



When we examine women's fashion of the last hundred years or so, we find that fashion has often followed or sought subtly to enhance, the natural lines of the body.  But we also discover trends in which the "ideal" silhouette presented is in conflict with the body's natural shape, putting the waist at the hips, say, or the shoulders as high as the earlobes.  Worse, "fashion" has sometimes reshaped the body into no clearly identifiable shape at all!  This is all likely due to the fashion industry's need to increase sales, a desire among fashion designers to court controversy, and downright misogyny.







While no doubt considered the height of fashion at the time, we often revisit these silhouettes in horror.  How could we have been so stupid not to see what is (now) so obvious?

Friends, today I would like to share a group of such dress patterns with you.  Depending on your age and eyesight, some of these dresses may look appealing.  Rest assured, these patterns were not chosen arbitrarily, but rather derived from a complicated algorithm.  This is science, not opinion.

Below are a few highlights.  You can view the grouping in its entirety here.  Occasionally, one view on the pattern envelope may look acceptable.  Discount that and seek out the view that is a nightmare -- it's there.











As you can see, the biggest culprit here is the ruffle.  This detail, used sparingly on an apron edge or petticoat hem, may charm.  Used in excess however, or intentionally applied to a part of the body where gathered fullness distorts our natural human proportions into something freakish, they are an embarrassment.

Unless you are 1) square dancing, or 2) reenacting the Charles and Diana wedding, please use ruffles sparingly.  (Infant-wear excluded.)

Another blemish on the fashion world is the effort to impose exaggerated geometry on the human (primarily female) body.  Few of us are truly rectangular, and yet in the 1980s, many dresses might just as well have been cardboard boxes, perhaps with Old Gold written across the front.





These patterns look wrong because they were wrong -- wrong according to taste, truth, and a very sophisticated algorithm I cannot share with you.

Finally, there is the attempt to create the panted version of every dress, no doubt in an attempt to court the casual, comfort-minded consumer, regardless of what the result might look like.  I can only say ugh, or rather ugg-a-wugg.







In closing sophisticated readers, do you agree with the basic thrust of my argument (and my top-secret algorithm)?  Can you see how attempts to distort the natural shape of the human body fail every time, and are met with little more than derision in hindsight?  Are you hiding any vintage nightmares in your closet?

Please complete the following poll:



NOTE: An ugly rumor has been circulating in the blogosphere to the effect that I hate orange.  I do not hate orange.  On me, it is an atrocity, but if you like it, more power to you.  Tangerine Tango, on the other hand, may end up being the Eighties knee-ruffle of tomorrow.

What is your favorite silhouette and are giant shoulder pads and parachute pants involved?

Jump in!
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Posted in clothing and culture, patterns | No comments

Friday, January 13, 2012

More on Color Forecasting, etc.

Posted on 11:10 AM by dvdsvdsdv


Friends, I know you're eager to continue yesterday's discussion about Tangerine Tango, not to be confused with Clementine Clog Step,  Satsuma Slide, or Kumquat Gavotte.

Amateur sleuth that I am, I decided to do some online research to see just how deeply Tangerine Tango has penetrated the American consumer market.  Answer: not very.  First, I made a beeline for the Lord & Taylor dress department, well, actually the LordandTaylor.com dress department, where I looked at tiny photos of hundreds of women's dresses.  I found virtually nothing in anything even close to Tangerine Tango.  In fact, judging by Lord & Taylor, the big colors are purple, emerald, and other jewel tones -- no citrus fruit at all.

Even when you search specifically under orange, the closest I found was a cute little one-shoulder polyester dress in Papaya.

Here's what I think: a Lord & Taylor buyer with a head on her shoulders realized that if she jumped on the Tangerine Tango bandwagon, there'd be a lot of rotting fruit on the racks come Spring.  Surely store buyers must recognize that orange is a difficult color for most -- most -- people and much more suitable for the cheap accessory than the big purchase.

Other than Clio, who looks good in orange?  I want names, people, names.

I also did a search under orange appliance in the Home & Kitchen section of Amazon.  There wasn't much.  You can get a tangerine (though not Tangerine Tango) classic Kitchenaid mixer for a few hundred dollars (see top pic), but they offer a wide array of colors, not just orange.

I looked over at the Bed, Bath & Beyond website and it's slim pickings in orange -- a plastic pitcher here, a Bodum coffee maker there.  Usually the orange you do see is that late-Nineties iMac orange (remember those candy-colored computers of yore?).  Most definitely not Tangerine Tango.



Moving right along, I realized that I actually do know someone in the field of fashion/color forecasting, a man I met a book launch event last fall who happens also to be a well-known paper doll enthusiast and illustrator.  I am going to reach out to him and find out more about color forecasting.  I may wait till the dust dies down on yesterday's post in which I basically trash the forecasting field, however.

In other news...

You may have noticed that a few things have changed in the Comments section of this blog in the last few days.  You now have the option to respond directly to a specific comment.  I invite you to use this feature, though please treat each other with kindness -- not all of us are writing in our native language.  Avete capito? 

I must return to sewing before I forget how.  This Twenties dress, straight out of a Clara Bow movie, is high on my list.



Finally, now that we're into 2012, I have made my first sewing-related purchase!

It is the Couture Techniques Workshop Basics with Claire Shaeffer DVD.  Are you familiar with it?  As much as I like to read about sewing -- and I still intend to review the revised edition of Claire Shaeffer's book Couture Sewing Techniques -- I really love to have things shown to me.  (It was the Margaret Islander Shirtmaking DVD, a bootleg copy of which I was given by someone whose anonymity I will respect as the original costs a fortune, that taught me how to sew my first successful men's shirt, and I've watched that DVD, easily, fifty times or more.  I love her.)

Do you like sewing videos?

Friends, that's it.  Those with time on your hands, where can we find Tangerine Tango today?  Bloomingdales?  Macy's?  Kmart?  Please do some research and report back.

Have a great day, everybody!

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Posted in clothing and culture, my life | No comments

Thursday, January 12, 2012

The Wacky World of Color Forecasting

Posted on 11:23 AM by dvdsvdsdv


Before I get started, why does current fashion illustration make women look like Bratz dolls?  I don't like it one bit.

Moving right along...

Friends, how much do you know about color forecasting?  I don't know much, but you'd have to live on Mars not to have heard that Pantone's official Color of the Year for 2012 is Tangerine Tango, aka orange.  (You can read more about it here.)  I hate to sound grumpy -- I am still recovering from my weekend cold -- but I was "over" that color ten seconds after seeing it; to me it screams Guantanamo Bay prisoner jumpsuits. 

Why should we care about a Color of the Year?  Is there a food of the year we eat to the exclusion of others?   (2012 -- Year of the Pickle!)  The beauty of sewing our own clothes is that we're free of the limitations of what's available at the stores and all this forecasting drivel.  We don't have to dig through racks of Tangerine Tango stuff in search of something that's actually flattering or that ten million other people aren't wearing.  (Read this in your best robot voice, arms extended like zombie: Must. Wear. Orange.  Must. Wear. Orange.)

In this day and age, when every kind of authority is being questioned (with good reason), why does color forecasting still hold sway?  My understanding is that many different industries pay big bucks to the companies that do color forecasting.  Color choices have to made for all sorts of things: appliances, carpeting, wallpaper, car interiors, makeup -- the list goes on and on -- and nobody wants to be off trend.  When I was growing up in the early Seventies, appliances were all avocado and harvest gold, avocado and harvest gold: phones, mixers, refrigerators, kitchen tile, plastic dinnerware, paper napkins, etc.  This was not coincidence, but the result of color forecasting.

I had to dig, but I finally located this old Milliken "Fashion Colors for 1971" booklet I found years ago.  It presents an evocative theme for the colors Milliken would be producing (in textiles) that year.   The overall palette is the American Southwest, with groupings of colored swatches labeled "Grand Canyon," "Indian Brights," "Painted Desert," etc.





It's not so much the individual colors, but rather the color combinations that are remarkable -- I remember them so well from childhood clothes I owned or from TV shows.  You find them in old sewing pattern envelope art too.  Do any of them feel familiar? 





The Brady Bunch looking very "Sierra Sands" with a hint of "Painted Desert."

Then, just as now, colors were given provocative new names consistent with the fashion "story" they were meant to tell.  Just as orange is now Tangerine Tango, in 1971, Milliken called its vibrant red War Paint.  The Native American population was thrilled.

More Milliken color samples pics here.

So I ask you: as sewers, how much attention, if any, do you pay to color forecasts like the one from Pantone?   When I saw the men's forecast for Spring 2012, I couldn't relate in the least.  The descriptions of the colors themselves are so banal and the color choices....you won't find me in Starfish (aka beige), rest assured.  To me this whole forecasting idea seems very played out and Twentieth Century.  Do you agree? 

In closing, when you hear a color is Color of the Year, does that make you run toward it or away from it -- screaming?

Anybody have additional insights into this industry they wish to share?

Have a great day, everybody!
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Posted in clothing and culture | No comments

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Random thoughts about aging, etc.

Posted on 9:59 AM by dvdsvdsdv


Readers, occasionally I have random thoughts about various topics, none of which warrant a blog post all their own, or which I might flesh out sometime in the future -- or maybe one of you would like to develop one of them on your own blog; feel free.  So here goes:

At the library yesterday, I passed a display of Suzanne Somers' latest diet/health book, Sexy Forever.  And I found myself wondering: sexy....forever?  Is that the new benchmark for health and happiness in the Twenty-First Century?  I'm exhausted and I haven't even read the preface!

There are -- and probably always have been -- celebrity women I'll call "professional beauties."  These are people for whom looking younger than their biological age isn't simply a goal, it's their job.  Suzanne Somers is one of those people, and you can probably say the same about octogenarian Mamie Van Doren, Victoria Principal, Connie Stevens, Jane Fonda, and even the late Mae West, though she (thankfully) pre-dated the infomercial.  They are their own guinea pigs for all sorts of (sometimes controversial) health, beauty, fitness, and diet regimens which may help them -- and us -- or not, but either way they rake in a lot of cash promoting them, and themselves.

I don't want this to be a judgment on Suzanne Somers and her personal self-help industry; a lot of women (her primary audience) relate to her and find the information she provides helpful, and she has always seemed like someone who'd be fun to have lunch with.  In the end, we all die, though, and while I can certainly relate to wanting to remain vibrant and lucid as long as we can, I'm just not sure if these rich celebrities are the best role models for the rest of us, though they certainly have the loudest megaphone.

On a somewhat related note, occasionally I visit the Advanced Style blog, which is very beautiful and fun, but there are times when I look at those stylish elders and think 1) when you're affluent (as most of the subjects appear to be) you can afford to dress well at every age, and avail yourself of the services you'll need to keep up appearances when you're too old to do your own laundry; and 2) there's so much more to life than the way we look and so much freedom in letting that go.  I already feel that way now (at nearly fifty), and I hope that just because I make my own leopard pants, you don't think that's the way I dress every day, or expect other people to.

This is not the same as not caring about oneself, but rather about focusing on the myriad aspects of being human that have nothing to do with how we assemble an outfit.  Personally, I think we can learn more from, say, frumpy Eleanor Roosevelt than the "fabulous older ladies" portrayed at Advanced Style.   Perhaps there's inspiration to be found from both.  Thoughts?

I think it was Erica Jong in Fear of Fifty who wrote something like -- I remember this from the book review -- as an older (post-menopausal) woman she could finally focus on being a subject rather than an object.  Even though I'm not a woman, let alone post-menopausal, that line stayed with me.

As a gay man, I experience a lot of the same pressures to continue to look "sexy" and appealing to others.  It's a basic human need to be seen (just as an infant needs mirroring from the parent to develop a healthy sense of self) and treated with dignity, but I hope that being considered "sexy" isn't a requirement too.  To me, the word sexy implies awareness of one's own sexuality and the implicit promise (or suggestion) of sexual availability -- hence, we considered Marilyn Monroe sexy (she seemed to be very aware of her own sexual power over others and flaunted it) and Eleanor Roosevelt considerably less so.  Errol Flynn was sexy; Gandhi not-so-sexy.

My point is not that it isn't nice to be sexy -- and, of course, living in a part of the world where youth and youthful sexuality are prized above all else, it makes sense that many of us will have internalized those values to the point where believing we look sexy feels good, if only because we're winning at the game as the game has been presented to us.  Nor am I saying that octogenarians aren't sexual.  I'm arguing that there are other games in town, games which don't sell diet books, beauty creams, or Thighmasters -- or anything at all.

Oh, my, I have gone on!

I wanted to share so many other things today.  My daily ditching continues!  I have gotten rid of a pile of tee shirts that were ill-fitting, in unflattering colors, never worn, or some combination of all three.  They didn't make me feel sexy.



Here are the dog stairs, now placed in front of the hot air blower in the living room.  As you can see, the dogs love lying on it.







Friends, I slept nearly twelve hours last night, and I attribute at least some of my success to herbal sleep aid, valerian.  It also helped that the dogs and Michael, who came in late last night from the opera, slept on the sofa.  Anyone who has taken valerian will attest to the fact that it smells absolutely awful, but I find it effective -- a mild relaxant more than a sleeping pill, though you're not supposed to take it and drive, so don't.

Do I need my own room?



In closing, friends, how do you feel about the concept of sexy forever?  If you're on the far side of fifty, do you still feel as sexy as you did at, say, thirty?  If not, do you long for those sexier days, or have you found that there are sources of satisfaction in life that, if not entirely balance things out, then certainly compensate?

Are there ways to be fabulous in our later years that don't involve big hats and flamboyant eyeglass frames?

Jump -- or gingerly pad -- in!
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      • Pocket Love + Don't Call Me!
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      • "Bling-a-Ding-Ding" - Faux Fur Coat Update!
      • Fervently fighting faux fur fatigue!
      • Further Fur Coat Adventures!
      • 70's Faux Fur Coat MUSLIN + Tools at the ready!
      • Faux Fur Fabric Haul and MORE!
      • The Coat Project: friend or faux?
      • Random Thoughts about Seventies Coats
      • Glitzy Fabrics and the Sewing Headache
      • Men in their Underwear
      • Glitzy Halston-inspired outfit UPDATE!
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