Jeans Sew-Along 4 -- Front Pockets

Readers, I know what you've been wondering all week.  Is Peter going to finish his jeans pockets with genuine rivets?
Short answer: I don't know!  I bought rivets at Sil Thread earlier in the week but I hate anything that requires hammering.  I may have to have a conference call with Taylor Shmaylor -- who just made an incredibly awesome pair of chinos, by the way, and why am I experiencing heartburn?

Our goals for today are:

1. Stitch our front pockets.

2. Overcast or serge the outside edges of our pants fronts.

It's an easy day!

1.  The front pockets on Kwik Sew 3504 are very straightforward and the directions are clear.  That said, I screwed up the first time (which is actually the fourth time since I've made nearly identical pockets before).   More about that in a bit.

First thing you want to do is prepare the coin pocket.  Has anyone actually put coins -- or anything else -- in this pocket EVER?  I'd be curious to know.

Here's a case where you must double topstitch.  It holds down the double-folded edge.



Remember, when you're attaching the coin pocket to the front pocket, that this is the RIGHT pocket we're talking about.  Next, you'll double topstitch the left edge of the coin pocket (which will be visible on the front of the pants) after folding the side in 5/8", and stitch the right and bottom edges as well.  I did these at approximately 1/4".  You want to be able to get into the pocket (not that you'll ever need to) which is why you double-topstitched the top edge before securing the coin pocket to the pocket inset.

I then finished the bottom and front edge (just like the instructions tell you to).  If you don't have a serger, you can overcast by running a zigzag stitch along the edge.



Now you're going to stitch this piece to the pocket itself along all four edges (at approx. 1/4").  Here's where I made my mistake.



The side of the pocket fabric facing you should be the side you want on the INSIDE of the pocket.  The instructions call this the WRONG side.  But I wanted the printed (RIGHT) side of my fabric on the inside of my pocket.  Do you see my dilemma?

What I should have done -- and later did -- was this:



If your pocket fabric doesn't have a right and wrong side, or you don't care which side ends up inside the pocket, it doesn't matter.  But if you do care, don't make this mistake.

Let's continue.  We're now going to attach the piece we've just stitched (with the pocket insets facing down) to the RIGHT side of each pants front at the curve, just like the instructions tell us to.  (Usually with denim there's a very clear right and wrong side; with white denim, much less so, so pay attention if it's not obvious or better yet, label the wrong side so you don't get confused.)  The seam allowance is 5/8".



We're now going to trim down the seam allowance to approximately 1/4" (I generally just halve my seam allowance).  NOTE: The pic below is the left pocket and pants front (just to keep you on your toes).  You'll need to make both pockets.



Now turn the pocket over.  The inside pocket fabric should be on top.  You're going to understitch the pocket fabric to the seam allowance.  This will keep it from creeping up over the edge of the pocket (where it will be visible).  Again, you're stitching the pocket fabric to the denim seam allowance.





Folded down along the curve, the pocket looks like this:



From the outside, like this:



You'll now double-topstitch that edge:



Now fold the pocket along the fold line (this was on the pattern piece) and match notches.  You now must stitch the bottom of the pocket closed (I stitched twice for greater strength) and overcast or serge the raw edge.





I always put a dab of Fray Check on the clipped tip of my serger tail.  Some people knot them.  To play it safe, put a bit of paper or something under the edge in case the Fray Check drips.  I didn't.



Now stitch the pocket and pocket insets to the pants front, both at the top (stitches will end up in the waistband seam allowance) and the side (stitches will end up in the side seam allowance) -- you're just holding it in place till you add the waistband, etc.  I stitched at approximately 1/4".



It's at this point you want to bartack with a zigzagger or add a rivet (no pic because I didn't do it yet; See instructions if you're not sure where to do this).  If you're using a straight stitch machine you can just run a few stitches back and forth to secure the area.  It takes a lot of stress when you put your hands in your pockets, especially if you have big hands.

2.  Now is the best time to finish the raw outside edges of our pants front.  If you're using selvage for this edge (which requires redrafting KS 3504 so that it's entirely straight) you don't need to do this.



With both sides done, you should have something that looks like this from the inside:



And this from the outside:



Friends, that's it for today.  Tomorrow we make zipper flies!

Comments/questions?  Some show-off already finished his jeans in the Flickr Group, do you believe it?  Or did he just go out and buy pants?

How's it going so far?

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Jeans Sew-Along 3 -- Seams

Good morning, Sew-Alongers and Sew-Along bench-sitters!  I don't think I told you yet, but I'll be sewing two pairs of jeans in our Jeans Sew-Along: white denim jeans with a zipper fly and dark blue denim jeans with a button fly. 

I've been wanting white jeans for a while now even though I'm a bit of a slob.  We'll see how that works out.  Do you like men in white jeans?

Today I want to focus on seams.  The Kwik Sew 3504 pattern instructions calls for most seams to be double-topstitched rather than flat-felled, so I thought I'd show you the difference.  First, though, today's goals.

Our goals for today are:

1. Having made our pattern adjustments, start cutting our fashion fabric.

2. Choose and cut pocket fabric.

3. Practice our jeans stitches: flat-felling or double-topstitching, overcasting and/or serging seam allowances.

****

1. It's time to start cutting.  I know some of you who are between sizes (e.g., Small and Medium) aren't sure which size to cut.  I'd always err on the side of too large.  You can always make modifications as you stitch and try on; you can't make something larger if you've cut it too small.

IF you're using stretch denim, however, and prefer a snug fit, you may prefer to cut the smaller size.  The first time sewing with a new pattern is a journey into the unknown to some extent.  That's why we make muslins.  BTW, to make a jeans muslin, all you really need to make is the equivalent of shorts. It's the fit from waist to thigh that needs precise fitting.  The only adjustment I've made is to shorten the rise by 1/2".  I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Having pre-shrunk my denim, I ironed it.  Remember when I said my denim had no stretch?  I was wrong.  This denim has some lycra in it and I'll just have to deal with it.   If you're sewing stretch denim, try not to stretch it as you sew or the seams won't lie flat.



IMO, it's not worth trying to cut two layers of denim at the same time -- the bottom layer too often ends up off grain.  It takes just a few minutes extra to cut all the layers separately; there aren't that many pattern pieces with jeans.

What's nice about denim is that you can generally find the grain very easily and line up your pattern piece accordingly.



It took about an hour or so, but I got everything cut out.  (I use an Olfa rotary cutter and self-healing mat on the floor.)



2. Yesterday I also chose my pocketing fabric.  I'm using a leftover piece of shirting from the Men's Shirt Sew-Along -- sturdy, quilt-weight cotton.  For jeans pockets I usually use shirting, either 100% cotton or a blend.  I avoid flannel, which doesn't hold up as well, in my experience.  Whatever fabric you choose, remember to pre-shrink it (a good steaming may do the job if you don't want to do laundry again).



3. Now, on to stitching.  We've been discussing denim/topstitching thread in the Jeans Sew-Along Flickr Group.  For those who aren't familiar with it, topstitching thread is thicker than regular thread and (arguably) sturdier.  Sometimes topstitching thread requires a sewing machine tension adjustment and we'll be talking more about sewing machine tension this week.  I'm always surprised by how many sewists are terrified of adjusting tension on their machines. We need to get over this fear, my friends. 

I'm going to serge most of my exposed seam allowances, and I changed the thread color and tested this out yesterday.  All good.  If you're not serging you'll want to overcast with a zigzag stitch along the raw edges of your seam allowances.



Now let's talk topstitching and flat-felled seams.

Remember how, in the Men's Shirt Sew-Along, we sewed our flat-felled seams with the fashion fabric right sides together?  With jeans, we're going to do just the opposite: we'll be stitching our seams with the fabric WRONG SIDES TOGETHER.  This is because we want the bulky side of the seam to appear on the outside of the jeans and not the inside.  I flat-fell the inner leg seams, all the seams attaching the back yoke, as well as the seam down the middle of the seat.  The outer leg seams I just stitch normally.  If you inspect RTW jeans, they're generally done this way.

Kwik Sew 3504 does not call for flat-felling, but rather directs you to double-topstitch.  A double-topstitched seam is sometimes called a "mock" flat-fell.  From the outside, it is virtually identical to a flat-felled seam and it's very sturdy.  Here's the difference:

To create a true flat-fell, we're going to stitch our fabric together, WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, with our topstitching thread (or denim thread; I use these terms interchangeably).  I use a medium-longish stitch for topstitching as I like the way it looks.  If your not sure which stitch length to use, examine a pair of RTW jeans.



Now separate the two pieces and finger press.  You should have two 5/8" seam allowances, right side up.



You're going to trim one seam allowance to approximately 1/4".  You can do this with shears or a rotary cutter.  Which seam allowance you choose to trim depends on which way you want the finished seam to lie.  The seam attaching the back of the pants to the back yoke, for example, generally folds up toward the waistband on RTW jeans. 



Now fold the longer side over the shorter side, encasing it.  You can iron the seam flat if you care to.



Topstitch along the edge at approximately 1/8".  Be careful not to fall off the seam edge!  If you need better control on a zigzagger, you can use an edge guide foot if you have one.



Finished, it looks like this on the right side:



And like this on the wrong side.  There are no exposed seam allowances to finish.



Now let's do a double-topstitched or mock flat-felled seam:

I sew my fashion fabric pieces together RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER -- the opposite of what we did for the true flat-felled seam.  This seam will not be visible.



Now open your fabric wrong side up, and finger press, folding both seam allowances to one side.  Next, turn your fabric right side up and topstitch along the seam, on the side which has both seam allowances folded beneath it, at approximately 1/8".



Then stitch a second line of topstitching, 1/4" from the first.



Right side up it looks identical to a flat-felled seam.



Wrong side up you have two seam allowances folded to one side.  You can serge or overcast these to prevent fraying.



Again, from the outside, these seams look identical.  If you find trimming flat-felled seams too challenging or labor-intensive, or if your fabric is too thick or spongy to handle it, do the double-topstitch.  It's your call.  When I made my leopard-print cotton velvet jeans, I double-topstitched.



Decorative seams like those along the pocket edges should be double-topstitched of course: flat-felling is not an option.

Friends, that's it for today.  I hope this is clear.  If you have any questions about these techniques, just ask.  Tomorrow we'll start sewing for real.

Have a great day, everybody!

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Jeans Sew-Along 2 -- Fit

I like to think I'm a very open-minded person, but in many ways I'm quite traditional and jeans fit is one of the ways.   Unless you're dancing around a pole, please keep your appendectomy scar covered.

You've probably heard that the high-waisted look is coming back, primarily for gals but it's only a matter of time for us guys.  On a certain type of figure I like this look.  It's also the one I grew up with.

How jeans should fit is a personal question and better hashed out in our Jeans Sew-Along Flickr group.  Age, body type, lifestyle, and personality all come into play here.   Personally, I find jeans that come up to my true waist to feel confining, especially when I sit down.  I prefer my jeans to hit approximately 3" below my navel, give or take 1".



I'm more particular about where the back waistband hits.  I'm 5'7", which is considered short here in the USA, and if the rise is too high in back, I think it really shortens me and also looks dated.  Way out West, where someone might conceivably be sitting on a horse (or a mechanical bull), this look is still in vogue. 

Too high for me (These are a 30" x 30" -- Helmut Lang via the dumpster):

 

I prefer this fit (these are Levi 511's, also 30" x 30") though they reveal a bit of love handle and cut me in the seat.



These Banana Republic jeans, ALSO size 30" x 30", are both too big and too high.  Commercial sizing means nothing these days.



More about fit below; let's move on.

Our goals for today are:

1. Take your basic pants measurements: waist (true waist or jeans-height waist), hips, inseam, rise (crotch to waist).  Do you know which jeans pattern size you'll be using?

2. Trace and/or cut your pattern pieces, making necessary adjustments to them. 

 3. Test needles and thread on your jeans fabric.

*****

1.  Did you try on your jeans yesterday like I asked you to?  Do you have a sense of what looks and feels good with regard to fit?

Let's take our basic measurements.

My true waist is about 30".  But I don't wear my jeans up there, as you already know.



My "jeans" waist is roughly 33".  But I know from experience that this does not mean I should cut the size Medium jeans: I'd swim in those.  I'll still cut the Small, but I may give myself a little extra room through the hips; I'll probably do this by narrowing the seam allowance a bit when I sew.



My hips are about 37" -- still within Small range according to the KS pattern, but barely.



This is the way I measure my rise; not sure if it's orthodox but it works for me.  From top of back waistband down under to front top of waistband, we're talking 22".  I'll also measure the distance from center crotch seam (where the flat-felled seams intersect) to both top of front waistband and top of back waistband on a pair of pants (whose fit I like) themselves and check that against the pattern.



Your inseam is from that inside crotch point down to where you want the bottom of your pants to go.  Better too long than too short as jeans will shrink a bit.  I only hem after multiple dryings.

2.  Basic adjustments to pattern pieces.  On the Kwik Sew pattern (and most patterns) there are designated places (horizontal lines) where you make changes if you're lengthening/shortening the legs and/or rise.  If you're tracing your pattern pieces, please include this line too.

I've made pants where I thought, well, I'll just make the changes to the rise when I'm attaching the waistband.  Then I ended up with side pockets too narrow to fit my hands inside.

Remember these?  I could maybe squeeze in three fingers.



Remember, too, that adjustments made in the fly area will have to me made to all other pattern pieces that intersect that area.
 
3. This is the time to experiment with thread and needles.

Yesterday I bought my topstitching thread at Sil Thread.  You can order from them online, did you know that?  They have 200 colors!



I tested it using my Featherweight and it works great.  You want something thick enough to show up well but not so thick as too screw up your sewing machine.  I sew jeans with a size 14 or 18 needle -- it's a stronger needle for thicker fabrics and the eye is large enough to accommodate thicker thread.





Test your needle and thread with multiple layers of denim.  Make sure your machine is up to the task.

Friends, I think that's enough for today, don't you?  Tomorrow we'll start cutting fabric.  A few of you have recommended pre-shrinking denim more than once and that sounds like a good idea, especially if you routinely dry you jeans in the dryer.

All sorts of fun conversations are going on in the Flickr group -- check it out!

See you all tomorrow!

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Jeans Sew-Along 1 -- Getting Started!

Welcome to the first day of the MPB Jeans Sew-Along!

For the next few weeks we're going to be making jeans together.  Whether you're a veteran or are sewing jeans for the first time, you're going to have fun and, I hope, learn something new about jeans and jeans construction.

Before we get started, a little useful info:

• If you haven't already joined the Jeans Sew-Along Flickr group, please do.  The Flickr group is the best place to ask specific questions, not only of me, but of the other Sew-Along participants too.  You can also post photographs of your projects there, or start a jeans-related discussion topic.   You can join the group through Flickr, or by sending me an email directly (peterlappinnyc at gmail dot com).  You don't have to be a member to view the photos and comments, but you do have to join to contribute.

• I'll likely be posting Sew-Along-related entries daily, which means I'll be moving along at a steady clip.  Please sew at a pace that works best for you.  There's absolutely no rush, and all the old posts will be accessible at any time.  If you don't get started until most of us have finished, no worries.  Work at your own pace.

• I'm using Kwik Sew 3504, an in-print men's jeans pattern.  If you'd like to sew Kwik Sew 3504 with me, you can purchase this pattern through the Minneapolis-based Etsy Store Sewtropolis and domestic shipping is FREE.  You'll get the pattern for just $11.99.  The link is http://www.etsy.com/listing/69609861/kwik-sew-3504-mens-jeans.   (It currently shows the pattern as "sold."  Please contact Sewtropolis through Etsy; my understanding is that they will provide more.)  You are welcome to use the pattern of your choice and if you have questions I haven't addressed, you can post them in the Flickr group.  If I can't answer them, most likely someone else can.

• I'm not making a true muslin but you may want to.  Since denim has unique properties, like a tendency to stretch out with repeated wearing as well as to shrink in the laundry, there are benefits to making your practice garment with it, or with another similar twill fabric.

Our goals today are:

 1. Familiarize ourselves with our pattern and read instructions carefully.  Do you have all the supplies you need?  Have you pre-shrunk your denim? 

2. Study some RTW jeans that fit (if you have any).  Tomorrow we are going to discuss fit and examine some commercially-made mens jeans closely.  We're also going to take our measurements.

3. If you are confident about which pattern size you need, you can go ahead and trace and cut (or cut directly) the pattern pieces.  If you're not, I'd hold off till we talk more about fit.
****

1. In my experience, Kwik Sew instructions are well-written and very detailed.  Whatever pattern you're using, make sure you examine the measurements for each size.



I like to study the whole pattern and note how the different sizes are drafted.
 

I'll be using both dark indigo denim and white non-stretch denim -- two separate pairs.  I've pre-shrunk them but may wash and dry them one more time (separately). 



2.  I have dug up some old jeans of mine and Michael's to use as models for construction, and to examine fit differences.  Since just about everybody owns a pair of jeans, it's a great idea to study how they're made.  Pattern instructions are useful, but seeing what a RTW pair of jeans looks like and how they are finished is invaluable.  There may be details you'll want to copy from the RTW pair that aren't included in your pattern instructions.  We'll be covering many of these details in the days ahead, including zipper flies vs. button flies.





3.  Having sewn Kwik Sew jeans in the past, I'm pretty sure I'm going to be a size Small.  Nevertheless, I have decided to trace my front and back pieces.



I used canary yellow tracing paper, a roll of which I purchased at my local art supply store.  It's easy to work with and very sturdy. 

Here's the earlier Kwik Sew pattern I've used in the past, 2123, from 1991.  I originally took approximately 1.5" out of the rise of those.  It looks like Kwik Sew 3504 has a lower rise right out of the envelope.  We'll talk more about this tomorrow but remember: changes made to the front and back pieces also need to be made to the fly, fly shield and other corresponding pieces.





Friends, that's it for today.

Your assignment is to try on all the jeans you have.  Which ones fit best?  What's the difference between the jeans that fit and/or look best and the ones that don't?  How high on your waist do you like your jeans to sit?  Most people don't wear jeans at their real waist (the narrowest point) but rather a few inches below (sometimes many inches).  Nevertheless, I've noticed some jeans companies (like American Apparel) are started to show vintage-inspired jeans that reach all the way up to the top of the waistline.  Oye.

Tomorrow we're going to talk about fit and RTW jeans.  If you have questions or comments, please leave them below, or in our Flickr group.

Have a great day and see you tomorrow!

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