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Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Requiem for the Ladies Hat

Posted on 2:35 AM by dvdsvdsdv


Readers, I know women still wear hats.

You see them on the runway... 

 

You see them at the Ascot races...



You see them at the Easter Parade and at the Baptist Church, and you can even find cheap straw ones at the dollar store.  But the hat as an essential part of a woman's wardrobe is over.  Finito.  Will it ever return?  That, my friends, is anybody's guess.

Just to review, during the first half of the Twentieth Century (and a bit beyond), women wore hats outside -- and sometimes in -- as a matter of course.  A fashionable woman would no sooner be seen outside without a hat than she would without stockings or gloves  (Ah, gloves!).

During their heyday, hats were practical and hats were whimsical.





They framed the face, enhancing strong features and subtly distracting from weak ones.
 



They were sculptural and sometimes surreal.





Big or small, hats were a symbol of style.





So whatever happened to the ubiquitous ladies hat?

Please don't tell me that hat's were simply too much trouble.  Women are still teetering on six inch heels -- perhaps more today than ever before (certainly in real numbers).  They spend many hundreds of dollars on handbags and designer sunglasses.  They're willing to squeeze themselves into Spanx.  They wax their you-know-whats. 

Who -- or what -- killed hat culture?

I can identify a number of suspects.  Hairspray, which made possible the bouffant, upon which it became awkward to wear a hat.

The portable blowdryer, which allowed women to wear their hair long and loose.



Youth culture, which associated hats with stuffy formality and age.

The automobile, which meant that people were no longer seen outside in public, except walking from their garage to their car, or out of their car and into a doorway.  A hat is a public adornment.  If most space is private, why bother?

 
Ali McGraw.


I love hats.  I rarely buy them however because I simply don't have room to store them.



Cathy rarely models without a hat.  She says they bring her luck. 



On MPB Day, I had the privilege of meeting New York hat maker Sally, now one of my closest friends.  We talked hats quite a bit that afternoon, and she told me about an upcoming show at the Bard Graduate Center right here in New York City, curated by renown milliner Stephen Jones.  It opens in mid September and runs through April. 

Shall we organize an MPB outing this fall to go see it?



Readers, I ask you: do you still wear hats as adornment, as opposed merely to keep your head warm?

If you do, why?

If you do not, why not?

I know most women don't miss the days of corsets, or bullet bras, or garter belts, but do you ever miss hats?  Can you think of any reasons for the fading away of hat culture other than the ones I identified?

Toss your hat in the ring and tell us!

More hat pics here.

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Posted in clothing and culture, Hats | No comments

Monday, August 15, 2011

The TOP SECRET Dress Project

Posted on 7:49 AM by dvdsvdsdv

Welcome readers!  I know many of you are still recovering from MPB Day festivities, but we must move forward nonetheless.  A buffered aspirin is good for most headaches but rashes that persist for more than a few days should be checked out by a doctor.

Friends, there is so little I can say about my next sewing project that it almost isn't worth writing about.  But I'm going to try.

As many of you know, since March I have been contributing weekly blog posts to a certain commercial sewing website.  I've rarely mentioned them here mainly because they were usually rewrites of material already posted on Male Pattern Boldness and I lived in constant terror that they would figure this out; nine times out of ten I didn't even change the title.

Anyway, for said website, I will soon be leading a sew-along.  I'm very excited about it, and I can guarantee that all material will be fresh, or as fresh as anything I post ever is.

As you can imagine, I am very reluctant to say too much, and yet I feel it is my responsibility to keep my readers informed.  I think when people we're close to keep things from us, on a certain level, we know it.  An old therapist said to me (she wasn't old, she's just no longer my therapist. In fact, I have no therapist -- do you think I need one?) that your secrets are your sickness -- about as original as the posts I reran on the aforementioned website, most likely, but nonetheless, I've remembered it to this day.

That is why I am an open book -- indeed, you might wish I closed it more often.  I just can't.  Parenthetically, I was shocked by some of the probing questions I received from MPB Day attendees, questions I wouldn't even ask myself, though I've started asking and I'm very uncomfortable with the answers.  But I digress!

Here's what I (think I) can tell you about this top secret project.  We'll be following a dress pattern of their choosing.  It's a downloadable pattern.  They've provided me with the fabric (which I got to choose from a top secret catalog) and notions, but I still had to download the pattern and print it myself -- which I'm still a little bitter about.  There I go: I've said too much again!

I think I can share the following images with you without putting myself at risk, but please don't pass these around or repost them on your blogs or link them to my Wikipedia page!

Here's the pattern.  It only looks like a short novel.



The biggest secret of all, friends, is that this dress is not for Cathy.  It's for New York actress Leah X  (Not her real name).   Leah X is quite a bit younger than Cathy, quite a bit slimmer than Cathy, and --  now don't shoot the messenger -- quite a bit prettier than Cathy.

She's also doesn't give me attitude.



Here's the pattern, which I started taping together early last week and finally finished on Friday, now ready to be cut.  Have you ever taped one of these patterns together?  You know those famous Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, Italy?  I'll say no more.



I shouldn't show you the fabric.  I musn't.  Maybe what I'll do is post a pic and leave it up for a few hours and then delete it.  Pretty, no?


As with all downloadable patterns from this website, you have to add the seam allowances yourself, which I can live with.  You also have to add almost all the other information as well.  In the end, this actually forces you to pay more attention, so it's a good thing.  Please don't ask me about the instructions.



Since I'm making this for Leah but have limited access to her -- though I do have her measurements -- I'm making a muslin of the bodice and using 1" seam allowances just in case.  You'll notice I've also traced the original pattern pieces onto yellow tracing paper -- no way am I downloading that pattern again!



Here's the bodice muslin.  Leah is coming by late this afternoon for a fitting.  Shhhhh!



Readers, I must stop here.

There may be more information about this tomorrow.  Or not.  If you don't hear word from me in the next few days, please, please go to the authorities.  Give them this code: 4591117!!!   (The exclamation points are part of the code, not a commentary on it.)

They'll know what to do.

Any sewing secrets to share?  (We won't tell -- promise!)

Happy Monday, everybody!

PM UPDATE:  So far, so good.  Moving forward, this project will be referred to as "Aunt Hilda."  If you must ask me about it, a simple "How's your Aunt Hilda?" will suffice.   I'll know what you're talking about, as my real Aunt Hilda has been dead for decades.
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Posted in my life, project planning | No comments

Sunday, August 14, 2011

MPB DAY -- We're a hit!

Posted on 3:28 AM by dvdsvdsdv


Friends, I lead with this photo for two reasons: 1) it makes me look popular, and 2) it makes me look tall.  An entirely spontaneous yet brilliant composition!

What can I say, folks --  MPB Day was a rousing success.  We had an excellent turnout (more than twenty-five people!) and the weather couldn't have been better, which, given the summer we've had, is a minor miracle.

Naturally you're not going to like everybody, but I especially bonded with Jane, Patricia, Noile, Gillian, Maritza, Kimberly, Laura, Amanda, Gardin, Travis, William, Rachel, Cindy, Johanna, Tambira, Sally, Suzanne, Gina, Roberta, Claudine, Grace, Jackie, Jaeng, Jennifer, Joanne and Oliver...have I forgotten anybody?

Every large group has its troublemakers and this group was no exception.  Especially irksome were these two perky blondes, Noile and Gardin, who had the audacity to show up bright-eyed at 9:30 am and by 5 pm were still as peppy as June Allyson in a Depends commercial.  The nerve of some people.




These two made me feel like Burgermeister Meisterburger.

I was basically a cross between the Pied Piper of Hamelin and Maria Von Trapp, and if I'd had my guitar, would certainly have led the group in a rousing rendition of Do Re Mi and My Favorite Things.
 
And speaking of The Sound of Music (Read no further, Travis!), MPB Day participant Travis had moved to New York City from El Paso, Texas only two days earlier -- after a highly successful run as Rolf at the UTEP Dinner Theater.  I think I speak for everyone when I say I would gladly have danced with him in a moonlit pavilion, swastika or no swastika.  Just say the word.




Travis tells Liesl what she can do with her Edelweiss.



Sixties Going On Seventies?

While Travis didn't fly to New York specifically to attend MPB Day (or so he says), William had flown in from Florida, Joanne came all the way from Ithaca, and Jane and Gardin had bussed up from Baltimore that very morning. Wow!

With the exception of Rachel, Claudine, Suzanne, and Amanda, there were, thankfully, very few other bloggers.  Who needs the competition?

UPDATE:  How did I forget Noile?

Of course, as you'd expect in a crowd of sewers, everybody looked great.  There were, however, a few exceptional ensembles.  Claudine wore this smocked dress she made (inspired by a Bottega Veneta creation) and it is a work of art.


Cindy wore a smashing orange sundress she'd hemmed with horsehair braid.  She told me something about the print and Elvis and I can't for the life of me remember what.  Had he worn the same dress?





UPDATE:  Elvis had worn a shirt made out of the same Alfred Shaheen print.  (Thank you, Sammi!)


Gillian (on the left below) was sporting her own beautifully tailored pinstripe pants.  Very chic!



And I must mention Rachel's sailboat print top if only because -- typical blogger -- she kept forcing me to inspect her handiwork whenever I was nearby.  Kidding aside, I love that blouse!



Here's the basic run-down of the day:

A small group of us (including the aforementioned perky blondes) met at the flea market in the morning and combed both indoor and outdoor lots for fantastic finds.  This is where I did all my shopping for the day.

As you know, I have a bit of a ladies glove fetish, and I picked up four fabulous pair, in pink, beige, metallic silver and gold!  I also found a pair of cuff links that look like they'd been stolen by a male hustler right off Liberace's night table.  I must make a French cuffed shirt specifically for these cuff links.  The whole lot -- $10!







Hat maker Sally, or as I call her, Thoroughly Modern Milliner, found milliner's wire and a gorgeous Mr. John original straw hat -- which I  she insisted I try on. 






Gardin and Sally

At the flea market, we were also joined by Amanda, Kimberly, and many, many members of Kimberly's family!



Readers, I had literally visualized the image below the day before, no joke.  I call it "Peter and the Wolf."  Spooky, right?


At 11 am we all met outside the FIT museum, where we caught the very wonderful Sporting Life exhibit.  The whole group hung out in the gallery for an entire hour, claiming every available seating surface and kibbitzing loudly.  I'm sure the guards were like, Who are these people and when are they leaving?  



While I warned everyone not to lean in too closely to the mannequins so as not to set off the alarms, do you think they listened?  Thankfully, no one called the cops.


We had lunch around the corner at the yummy Brown Cup cafe, and when the twenty-five or so of us entered on what is normally a sleepy Saturday morning, we nearly gave the staff a heart attack.  Needless to say, the other customers quickly cleared out and we took over yet again.  It's all a bit of a blur but I think I had half a roast beef sandwich and something with provolone and salami (Michael, who joined us for lunch, and I split two sandwiches) -- delicious!




Patricia, Jennifer Travis, Cindy, Jane, William, Rachel, Suzanne, Joanne, Gina, and Jackie



Can I stop smiling now and eat my sandwich, please! (Kimberly and Maritza)

After lunch we worked our way up to 38th Street, home to Pacific Trim, Sil Thread, and the overwhelmingly immense (and stretchy) Spandex House.




Grace, Tambira and Patricia at Sil Thread



Travis and the Von Trapp Family Sewers at Spandex House

We then walked up to 39th Street and hit H&M (my old fabric dive) and Chic Fabric, before heading to the more upscale -- and jam-packed -- Mood on 37th Street. 




Do, mi, mi/ Mi so so/ Re fa fa/ La ti ti!

We next stopped at Around the World Magazines (on 40th St. off 5th Ave.), which carries a huge selection of international pattern and fashion magazines (and books), before advancing to Kinokuniya, where the most beautiful Japanese pattern books can be purchased.



Exhausted and nearly bankrupt, we grabbed some cool refreshments from the Kinokuniya cafe and then successfully captured and held the southwest corner of Bryant Park for the next hour and a half.  There might be a few people camped out there still.





Miraculously, there were no traffic accidents, fatal allergy attacks, or police escorts out of fabric stores.  Any shoplifting that took place was performed deftly.  Having overheard a number of conversations, I'd say the consensus is that, in person, I am older, crankier, and more controlling than I appear on the blog, but more masculine.  A trade-off.

In closing, friends, it was a wonderful day, and a real privilege to get to meet so many of you in person.  Where should we celebrate MPB Day next year?  Maybe London!

Of course I am eager to hear how you spent your MPB Day.   Picnics, barbecues, fireworks?

You can see more pics from yesterday's festivities here. 

Happy Sunday, everybody!
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Posted in MPB Day | No comments
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